Istanbul - Day 6
Modern Istanbul - Mehter

View from Galata Tower

We spent the last day in Istanbul on the northern shore of the Golden Horn in the districts of Galata and Beyoğlu, also called Modern Istanbul or New City.

Galata was named after the Celtic tribal people of the Galatians that invaded Asia Minor in 270BC. However, other origins of the name have been suggested. The lower part of Galata begins at Karaköy square.  Already before the birth of Christ there was a settlement here, named Sycae or Sykai (meaning field). Emperor Constantine fortified the place. It soon became the preferred settlement of foreigners especially Genoese merchants. The quarter became known as Galata after Galatian prince who also settled here.  The Galatians were a Celtic tribal people that invaded Asia Minor in 270 BC.

In return for their help to recapture Constantinople from the Latin Crusaders, Emperor Michael Paleologos granted the Genoese the right to settle permanently in Galata. The Genoese settlement flourished and in. 1348 they surrounded their district with fortifications with as highlight the Galata Tower. After the Ottoman conquest in 1453, the Genoese were allowed to remain in Galata but had to share it with the Greek, Armenian and Jewish communities.

The Galata Tower or Galata Kulesi with its 12 stories served under the Ottomans as prison and as watch tower. In 1638, Hezarfen Ahmet Celebi made a set of artificial wings and flew from the 61 meter high tower  to Üsküdar at the other side of the Bosphorus. An electric elevator brings visitors to the top where they can enjoy a magnificent view.

 Soon after the Ottoman conquest the district of Galata became too crowded and the richer merchants moved to the hills above Galata and called this new district also Pera meaning "beyond" in Greek. Later Turkish Muslim families came and settled here and gave it the Turkish name Beyoğlu meaning son of the Bey. The first European embassies were built along the main street that became known as the Grand Rue de Pera. In 1927, the Grand Rue de Pera was renamed to İstiklal Caddesi or Avenue of Independence and is now a pedestrianized major shopping and walking area.

In 1831 the area of Pera-Beyoğlu was completely destroyed by a great fire.This created a great opportunity of rebuilding the complete district with Art Nouveau buildings and establishing city gas and public transportation. One of the most renowned buildings of the area is the Pera Palas Hotel. The hotel  was built in 1891 by the Belgian engineer and entrepreneur Georges Nagelmackers to provide comfort to the passengers of his Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits. The birdcage electric elevator is more than 100 years old and is still operating.

Walking further along the Istiklal Caddesi we pass several churches among which the Catholic Franciscan church of St. Anthony dating from 1907 is certainly the most prominent. Next, one passes the impressive gate of the Galatasaray Lisesi. This school was founded in 1886 as the famous Ottoman Imperial Lycée de Galatasaray with French as main language. Opposite the Galatasaray Lisesi is the Fish Market or Balık Pazar.  Somewhat hidden in the narrow street is the Armenian Church of the Three Altars (Üç Horan Ermeni Kilisesi).

After a considerable walk, we finally arrive at Taksim Square, the heart of modern Istanbul. Taksim in Turkish means "dividing point" and Taksim Square takes its name from a reservoir in the city's old water conduit system. In the center of the square is the Monument of the Republic or Cumhuriyet Atını executed by the Italian sculptor Canonica in 1928.

After lunch, we conclude our visit to modern Istanbul with a concert by the Mehter, the medieval Ottoman Military Band of the Jannisaries, at the Military Museum (Askeri Müzesi).  Returning to the hotel is conveniently with the underground train from Tünel to  Karaköy. Crossing the Galata bridge for the final time, we were lucky see a Royal Barge heading up the Golden Horn.

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