Ankara Page I

Ankara City View
Ankara, with a population of 4 million, is the capital and
administrative center of the Republic of Turkey. Ankara's history dates
back to the Hittites and Phrygians. It became important as a Phrygian
foundation as it was at the intersection of the major trade routes running
through Anatolia. Under the Ottoman rule Angora became a quiet town,
famous only for its goats. In 1923, Atatürk
declared Ankara the new Turkish capital and modern development
began.
Since my first visit to Ankara, back in 1982, I had mixed
feelings towards the capital of the republic. Hot and dusty with one big
traffic jam and of course the resulting smog. Apart from its two major
sights, the mausoleum of Atatürk
and the museum of Anatolian civilizations
I found Ankara not very interesting to the traveller. My second and third
visit did not change my opinion much. It was during the 2003 visit, that
my opinion changed completely. From now on, Ankara has become one of my
favourites. This change could be due to the fact that Ankara grows
on you with a longer acquaintance, to quote Lonely Planet. However, the
main reason is that I discovered Kızılay, the district that
forms the heart of modern Ankara. Kızılay, named after the
red cross hospital, is a charming district with some of its streets closed
to motor vehicles and lined with cozy cafés and affordable places to eat and drink.
Coming from more conventional places in Eastern or Central Anatolia, it is
really a surprise that alcohol is served and consumed here in public. We
spent two nice days in the comfortable Otel Melodi, Karanfil Sokak No. 10,
Kızılay (Tel. +90 (312) 417 64 14). Note that Karanfil
Sokak is closed to motor vehicles.
Photographs of Atatürk's Mausoleum Anıt
Kabir and the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations can be
found on the next two pages. We will start our photographic visit on this
page with Ankara Kalesi, or Hisar Ankara's 7-9th century castle.
Click on the thumbnails to get a greater picture